A splash of bright, cheery daffodils appears in April to celebrate the new growing season. Daffodils are hardy, versatile and reliable performers along the Front Range. These plants blossom freely year-after-year with minimum maintenance. Once established, daffodils generally thrive for many years and often spread into larger clumps from small offset bulbs. These new bulbs need to grow for several years before they are mature enough to produce blooms.

The scientific name for the plants is Narcissus. There are 12 classes of narcissus, classified by flower type. There are more than 70 species and 25,000 cultivars. These plants include such diverse types as the common trumpet, small-cupped, large-cupped, double-flowered and miniatures. Flower color ranges from the traditional bright golden yellow to lemon yellow, ivory, snow white, orange, pink and red.

Daffodils are classified according to when they bloom—early, mid-season or late-season. Because daffodil blooms last two to three weeks, a gardener can extend the blooming season by judicious selection of varieties from each grouping. For bulbs to make the most impact, gardeners plant dozens of bulbs in a single planting.

When buying at a local garden center, purchase high-quality bulbs, which produce the largest and longest-lived blossoms. Select large, firm, double-nosed bulbs that are free from any obvious defect or disease. “Double-nosed” is a term given to bulbs containing two growing points, and should result in multiple flowers the first year after planting. Inspect the bottom of the bulb for any sign of fungus, a white powdery substance; reject those bulbs. Many highly reputable bulb vendors are available by mail-order. These venders may offer the most variety.

The most demanding need of daffodils is good soil drainage. Bulbs planted in a poorly drained location weaken quickly, fail to flower after the first year, and develop bulb rots. Incorporation of organic matter into the soil helps improve drainage. Daffodils should have sunlight in order to develop the bulb and flower each year—ideally five hours of sunlight every day. Since much of their growth and photosynthesis occurs early before trees foliate, they may be planted under or near trees. Avoid planting daffodils on the north sides of buildings or near tall, dense evergreens.

When planting, space daffodils six to 12 inches apart, depending on the cultivar selected and flowering effect wanted. Fuller displays of flowers require closer spacing and more frequent division of the bulbs. Daffodils should be planted so the base of the bulb is about six inches below the soil surface. Daffodils must have good moisture to flower well. If rainfall is sparse, water the bulbs well after planting and throughout the year. Application of organic mulch can help retain moisture, as well as keep the soil temperature uniform and warm. During and after flowering, daffodils require adequate water.

Daffodils do not require heavy fertilization. When preparing the soil for daffodils, incorporate a complete garden fertilizer with a 1:4:4 or 1:3:3 N-P-K ratio, (e.g., 6-24-24) at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of area. Be sure to mix the fertilizer thoroughly with the soil; never place it directly in the bottom of the hole where the daffodil bulb will be placed. Established bulbs should be fertilized lightly each spring just as their leaves emerge from the soil. A handful of garden or bulb fertilizer around the base of each clump is sufficient; keep the fertilizer away from the leaves.

Although most gardeners find daffodils to be relatively trouble-free, the bulb foliage should be allowed to dry and wither, about 8 weeks after bloom, before removing the leaves. This foliage makes the food reserves that will be transferred to the bulb for storage, ensuring a great display next year. Interplant cool-season annuals or other perennials among the daffodils to provide some camouflage for the aging daffodil leaves. Flower heads should be removed promptly following flowering to prevent seed heads from forming.

Properly spaced bulbs will need dividing only every five to ten years. The need for division becomes obvious when flower size becomes smaller. Many bulbs eventually become overcrowded and must be divided and replanted for best effect. Wait until the foliage has turned yellow and withered. Divide into smaller clumps and replant. Storing bulbs in the average home environment is not very practical. If the bulbs cannot be replanted immediately, store them dry and cool, between 60 and 65 F, until they can be planted.

According to the Netherlands Bulb Institute, the top 10 selling varieties of daffodils are:
(Variety/Color/Type)
1. Narcissus 'King Alfred,' yellow w/ yellow cup, trumpet
2. Narcissus 'Salome,' white-pink w/ yellow cup, large-cupped
3. Narcissus 'Ice Follies,' white w/ white cup, large-cupped
4. Narcissus 'Tête à Tête,' yellow w/ yellow cup, Cyclamineus
5. Narcissus 'Minnow,' yellow w/ yellow cup, Tazetta
6. Narcissus 'Fortissimo,' white w/ yellow cup, trumpet
7. Narcissus 'Tahiti,' yellow w/ red cup, double
8. Narcissus 'Las Vegas,' white w/ yellow cup, trumpet
9. Narcissus 'Barret Browning,' white w/ oranges cup, small-cupped
10. Narcissus 'Mount Hood,' white w/ white cup, trumpet

The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.

Gardening and Insect Fact Sheets are available on-line by clicking HERE.

Return to Master Gardener Articles

This page updated:  April 13, 2007