Aspen daisy, blazing star, windflower, blanket flower, and plains yellow primrose are just a few of my favorite perennials from Colorado's wild botanical heritage that will thrive in the home garden. Colorado green thumbs are fortunate to have no less than 100 "native" species of flowers, trees, shrubs, and grasses to choose from. These indigenous plants have existed since before the advent of European settlement, adorning our fields and forests for centuries. By introducing "natives" into your garden you'll not only be delighted with refreshing splashes of natural beauty but you will also do the environment a favor by helping to preserve the unique biodiversity of our landscape.

Why Go Native?

• Water conservation-native plants generally require less water because they are adapted to our semi-arid climate and can cope with periods of drought. This does not include, of course, plants that are naturally found in wet areas such as along streams, lakes etc.Low maintenance-native adaptability reduces the need to rely on fertilizers and pest control. Soils may require less amending.
• Less invasive--native plants are less inclined to sprawl out and take over the garden.
• Habitat for wildlife-many natives provide shelter and food for birds, butterflies and beneficial insects that may have lost their natural habitat due to development.
• Preservation of Biodiversity-by introducing plant species that have been eliminated by the ravages of urban construction our biodiversity will continue to flourish.
• Interest in the garden-natives add a new dimension of color and texture to garden design whether formal or informal.
• Personal satisfaction-an interesting as well as environmentally friendly garden will bring pleasure to you and your family.

Designing With Natives

When incorporating native plants into your garden, you'll want to be aware of several factors-life zone, moisture, light, and soil requirements. All of these will affect the plant's survival in your particular microclimate.

Colorado is divided into five life zones dependant upon elevation. In Fort Collins, we are in both the Plains life zone (up to 5,500 feet) and the Foothills life zone (5,500 to 8,000 ft). Most natives will do well up to 7,000 ft but be sure to check altitude requirements before purchasing plants. Herbaceous perennials tend to have more tolerance to changes in altitude than trees and shrubs.

Although natives generally require less water than other plants, they are not all drought resistant. To avoid problems, group plants according to the amount of moisture they require and set your drip irrigation system to accommodate each groups' needs. Some will prosper without irrigation once they are established in your landscape. These low-moisture plants are excellent choices for areas difficult or impossible to irrigate.

How much sunlight comes into your garden? The amount of light will affect a native plant's growth and appearance. Try to mimic the plant's natural growing conditions as closely as possible.

Colorado gardeners constantly face the challenge of working with stubborn clay soils. The key to workable soil is to incorporate organic matter into the clay to enrich and lighten the texture and thus provide a favorable environment for plants. Native plants require less organic matter and can tolerate some clay, but they still demand good drainage. If your soil is compacted it should be loosened by tilling or digging and then amended by adding 10% compost, and 15% small aggregate (pea gravel) down to the root zone. This formula will provide the nutrition and drainage natives like best.

Into the Garden-Seeds, Transplants, Bare Roots

Seeds are the least expensive to plant and will allow you the greatest choice of species but they are not the best choice for the impatient gardener. Planting must be done during the summer monsoons or early in the fall and will not produce vegetation until the following spring.

The I-want-results-now gardeners may opt for transplanting containers-quart size or larger-- or bare root plants. Larger container plants have established root systems, will adapt more quickly to their new environment, and can be planted from spring to early fall. When considering bare root stock, be sure to water sufficiently after planting to avoid transplant shock and keep in mind that these plants can only be transplanted in the spring.

Gardening with native species offers an opportunity to add interest, color, texture and a bit of Colorado's botanical history to your landscape plan while helping in your own small way to preserve the biodiversity that our state offers.

For more information on growing native plants, check out the following pages on the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension website:

Native Perennials: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07242.html

Native Trees: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07421.html

Native Shrubs: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07422.html

Q: How should I prepare my strawberry beds for the winter months?

A: To help protect against freeze damage to the plant, apply a two-inch deep layer of straw over the plants after the ground freezes.

Q: The "shoulders" of my carrots are turning red. What is causing this, and are they still OK to eat?

A: As the days become shorter and nighttime temperatures become cooler, many plants begin to shut down for the season. This response to shorter days and cooler temperatures often triggers the breakdown or build-up of different pigments in various parts of plants (for example, when leaves change color in the fall). The red color on your carrots is caused by a pigment (anthocyanin) similar to the pigments that cause the red or purple color in beets. The red pigment is not harmful and should not affect the flavor or quality of the carrots.

Q: Should I cut back the foliage on my ornamental grasses this fall or is it best to wait until spring?

A: Most ornamental grasses respond best to being cut back just before new growth begins in the spring. In addition, the dry leaves and seed heads on ornamental grasses make for an attractive addition to the winter landscape.

The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.

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This page updated: October 7, 2004