From the golden foothills of the West Coast covered in California poppies (Eschscholzia californica) to the striking blue poppies (Meconopsis) of the Himalayas, poppies can be found growing throughout the world. The poppy family has hundreds of species although relatively few are available commercially. The delicate, crepe paper like flowers come in three of the four primary colors – red, blue and yellow and shades in between. There are alpine varieties which grow only a few inches tall to the California tree poppies (P. romneya) that can reach 10 feet. Most of the species are herbs – annuals and perennials – although a few are woody shrubs. When cut, the leaves or stems ooze latex which can be white, yellow, orange or clear. The seed is very tiny and usually encased in a capsule. Members of the “true poppy” family (Papaveraceae) are probably the most familiar. This group includes the annual opium or bread seed poppy, Iceland poppy, the common field poppy (Papaver rhoes), Shirley poppy and the flamboyant Oriental poppy.

Fields of scarlet poppies were painted by the Impressionists and became known as the “Flanders” poppies after a poem written by a 1st World War medical officer who noticed the cheerful flowers that sprung up around the graves and trenches where he was serving in Belgium. The Shirley poppies were developed in 1880 by Reverend Wilkes, Vicar of Shirley, England from a “sport” found in his yard of the common poppy that had a narrow white edge. Today these “Shirley” poppies are available in single and double forms and colors from rose to pink to apricot.

Papaver somniferum, the bread seed or opium poppy is an annual that will grow three feet or more in the garden. The seeds from this variety are used in baking. There are peony flowered hybrids like “White Cloud” or “Flemish Antique” and single varieties in colors from pink to red to grape and a variety called “Chedglow” with red flowers and variegated foliage. Annual poppies should be direct sown in the late fall or early spring and need moist soil until they germinate. They will develop a tap root and don’t like to be moved. These poppies will grow and bloom better in well-drained soil and full sun. If they are happy where they are planted they will reseed themselves and come back year after year.

Iceland poppies (P. nudicaule) and Oriental poppies are perennials. The Iceland poppies grow to about 2 feet and have large flowers. Deadhead these blossoms regularly and they will continue to bloom all season. They are a great plant for higher elevations and you will see them growing all summer in Estes Park and Breckenridge. The Oriental poppies come from western Asia – Turkey, Iran and the Caucasians. Although the flowers look like tissue paper, the plants are tough, vigorous perennials that will grow in our clay soils as long as they are not over-watered. Oriental poppies are usually propagated by root cuttings or divisions rather than seed. They are spectacular in the garden in both size and color. “Electric” orange and red will get everyone’s attention! The downside is the mass of dying foliage and stems after they finish blooming. Cut back the “mess” and plant Russian sage, baby’s breath or summer annuals to fill in the gap in the border.

Unfortunately, the Himalayan blue poppies don’t like our soil or our dry climate but there are lots of other poppies to choose from that do grow well here. Whether you grow a “drift” of a single color or add them to a wildflower garden – poppies will be a welcome addition to your garden and some will come back year after year.

Q: What are the cone-like growths that appear on some spruce trees during mid-summer?

A: Although they look vaguely like cones, the strange growths you notice on the spruce trees are probably Cooley spruce galls produced by aphid like insects called adelgids. The insect requires two hosts (Douglas fir and spruce) to complete its life cycle. During spring when the insect is developing and feeding on the spruce, the galls begin as a slight swelling at the base of needles and are not as noticeable. By mid-July, as the adult insects emerge and migrate to the Douglas fir to complete the life cycle, the galls dry out and start to take on the brownish color of cones. Although the galls affect the look of the tree they do very little harm.

Q: I have a rugosa rose bush with huge, round ball-like growths attached to the stems. What is happening?

A: Rugosa and old garden roses are frequently “galled” by species of gall wasps. The insect produces galls on stems that over-winter in cells within the old galls and emerge in late winter. The adults are small, inconspicuous, dark wasps, and the female will lay eggs in the dormant buds. The eggs will hatch and the larvae feed on the buds, causing a distortion that produces a gall. Old galls can be handpicked and destroyed before the adults emerge in late winter. The galls are primarily a curiosity.

Q: I am interested in planting salvia. Are they xeric perennials?

A: Perennial xeric salvias suitable for the Front Range include Salvia nemerosa “May Night” Meadow Sage, Salvia nemerosa “Plumosa”, Salvia argentea “Silver sage”, Salvia officinalis “Berggarten”(Culinary Sage), Salvia pitcheri “Grandiflora” (Pitcher’s blue sage). Salvia is one the easiest-grown groups of perennials. They include bush sages, meadow sages, culinary sages as well as species grown for their flowers, scent, or capacity to attract hummingbirds and butterflies. Salvia will grow in full sun and require soil that is well drained. Most salvias bloom over a long period, and they are repeat bloomers, if faded flowers are deadheaded. Salvias are resistant to both rabbits and deer.

The Colorado Hairstreak was named the state’s insect on April 17, 1996. When planning (and planting) a garden that includes butterfly traffic, include foods for both the caterpillar and adult stages. For example, the parsleyworm outgrows its unattractive name and transforms into the Black Swallowtail butterfly. The youngster enjoys noshing on dill, parsley, and fennel while the adult enjoys sipping nectar from butterfly weed, alfalfa, and thistle.

To help retain water in the soil, and reduce irrigation by as much as 50%, use grass clippings as mulch in the vegetable garden. Apply layers that are up to 1/4-inch thick and allow to dry before reapplication. Clippings can also be used in conjunction with newspapers (just a couple of sheets thick) to help control weeds. Do not use grass clippings that have been treated with pesticides.

Lawns that were stressed by last year’s drought may benefit from core aerating, overseeding, and fertilizing. Both overseeding and core aerating can be done at the same time but avoid using a preemergent herbicide. Spring fertilization, with a fertilizer that contains both slowly and quickly available nitrogen, can be done until June.

The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.

Gardening and Insect Fact Sheets are available on-line by clicking HERE.

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This page updated:  June 17, 2004