If you're looking to plant a tree that will benefit both people and wildlife try planting a sour cherry or a purple plum tree. These trees (European and native) are known as the most reliable producers of fruit for the Front Range.  No pollinator is required so even a small yard can accommodate one.  They sport lovely white blooms in spring and attractive foliage in the fall.  In between comes the fruit.  If you don't care to eat the fruit yourself, the birds and animals will enjoy the feast.

PLANTING

Young trees are available both bare-root and potted.  Plant bare-root trees before May 15th if possible.  Potted trees can be set out anytime in spring or early summer.  Choose a site that gets at least eight hours of sunlight a day as fruit trees love sunshine. Dig a wide, shallow roomy hole (not quite as deep as the depth of the root ball) to allow an easy spread of the roots.  Prune off any dead or broken roots or branches. Fill the planting hole with the loosened back fill but do not pack down the soil tightly or walk on it as this compacts the soil and reduces needed oxygen for the roots.  Water well and keep watered until established.  Apply three inches of organic mulch to conserve moisture but pull mulch about six inches away from the trunk of the tree.  If planted in a lawn, the mulch ring will also protect the tree from lawn mower and weed whacker damage to the trunk.

Be sure to water the newly planted tree throughout the fall and winter when precipitation measures less than one inch. This is especially critical the first couple of years after planting.

CARE

Sour cherries and plums are relatively carefree and have few pests in our climate.  A dormant-oil spray in early spring before bud break helps smother some over-wintering pests. The most common pest of both trees is the pear slug that skeletonizes the leaves.  Unless the infestation is severe, they can be removed by hand or sprinkled with wood or charcoal ashes to dry them up. Oftentimes slug invasions occur late in the growing season
and seem to do little harm.

No fertilizer is considered necessary for the first three years after planting in most cases.  After that apply orchard fertilizer according to package directions.  Chlorosis (leaf yellowing) is a common problem often signaling a need for fertilizer.  Thinning the fruit is desirable for the plum but is not needed for cherries.

PRUNING

As with most trees, pruning is best done in late winter or very early spring.  However, remove dead, broken or diseased branches at any time.  Prune the second year by removing crossing branches, water sprouts and suckers.  Do not remove more than one-quarter of the tree at a time. Nicely shaped, healthy trees will result from routine pruning.

Even though a harvest can not be guaranteed each year because of late frosts, snows and freezes, most years will find a desirable crop. Avoid planting in low areas where frost protection is often needed to protect blooms.

Plan now for a special tree for the future which is not only beautiful but provides a delicious treat for the summer.

For more information on growing healthy fruit trees, see fact sheets on growing fruit trees and fruit tree pests.

Also visit Planttalk Colorado #1201-1211 on fruit growing.
 

Q: I planted lettuce seeds in April with great results. Now those same seeds won't germinate. Could they have spoiled this quickly?

A: Probably not. Lettuce is a cool season green and seeds don’t germinate well once temperatures go into the 80's. You can try starting them inside and place them in a cool area of the house. When germinated, place them outside in part shade. When 2nd and 3rd leaves appear, transplant them in the garden.

Q: My tomatoes have black patches or spots on the leaves. Some have white fuzz growing on the underside of the leaf. They were doing great-this seemed to come on overnight. What’s wrong?

A: The problem you describe could be caused by a fungal disease called late blight. This disease attacks the plant after it blooms and shows symptoms when conditions are moist and temperatures are cool. Avoid overhead sprinkler irrigation if at all possible.  A copper based fungicide applied according to directions every 7-10 days will help. Destroy these plants after the season-do not compost, as the fungus can overwinter in garden debris.

Q:  What does the number of days on seed packets represent?

A: The number of days reflects the average number of days to harvest for that variety. It's not an exact date, but is useful in choosing varieties that match your growing conditions.
 

When iris are done blooming, don't cut the whole plant to the ground.  It is better for the plant to simply have the flower removed (deadhead).  The remaining leaves will continue to produce food for the next year’s flowers.  When everything finally turns brown, it is then okay to remove the leaves.

When you need to hire a tree care professional, go to the “Tree Service” section of your local yellow pages. Look for someone who is certified with the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA), request proof of insurance, ask for references and get two to three estimates. Remember that the best choice is not necessarily the lowest bid.

When mowing your lawn this summer, remember to raise the mower to about 3 inches.  This will not only hold more moisture and create needed shade to the grass roots but it will also make it harder for weed seeds to get to the soil to germinate.  Your lawn is in stress during a drought and it is important to remember that it will be susceptible to weed infestations as well as insects and diseases.

The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.

Gardening and Insect Fact Sheets are available on-line by clicking HERE.

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This page updated:  June 9, 2003