
by Mitzi Davis
Colorado State University Cooperative
Extension Master Gardener
Larimer County
Pansies and violas are part of the genus Viola that has 500 known species - including violets. What we now call a pansy was developed by Lord Gambier and his gardener William Thompson in the early 1800's. Working at Iver in England, Thompson crossed the Viola tricolor, a wild pansy, also known as Heart's Ease with other viola species - including one from Russia. These Show Pansies and Fancy Pansies became very popular in Victorian England and were grown for exhibition and elaborate planting beds out of doors. In 1839 Thompson discovered a self- sown viola with what appeared to be a miniature cat's face. Naming it Madoro, he used the seed from this plant to continue breeding and developed the new species V. x Wittrockiana. The pansy also became a favorite decorative motif and their cheery faces appeared on everything from hand-painted china, to wallpaper, paintings and embroidery. Today you will see pansies in potpourri, decorating candles, on note cards and real pansies as decorations on cakes and cookies. You can also freeze them in ice to float in your favorite summer beverage.
By the mid 1800's hybridizing was going on in England, Scotland, Switzerland and Belgium. The Scottish grower Dr. Charles Stewart is credited with discovering the pansy with clear colors - no face and no "rays". In the last 50 years much of the pansy breeding has been in Japan, Germany and the United States. The result of all this hybridizing and selecting has given us a sweet flower with a beautiful velvet texture, lots of blooms and cold and heat tolerance. Pansies come in every color - except green - white, yellow, blue, purple, lavender, mauve, orange, pink, red and bronze. They come with "faces" or without, solid colors or bi-colors with contrasting faces and blended colors. They range in size from huge blooms 4" across to little Johnny Jump-ups (violas) - less than 1" wide. Some of the newer varieties include the large flowered Majestic Giant series, medium sized Springtime and Imperial series and the multiflora Crystal Bowl series with 11 clear colors with no face.
Pansies and Johnny Jump-ups (violas) are versatile and durable. Grow them from seed or purchase plants from the garden center. Plant in early spring - they will take the frost and our spring snows. You'll get more blooms if you deadhead regularly and fertilize every other week or use a timed release fertilizer. They are relatively pest and disease free and usually only show signs of problems when the weather gets hot and they get leggy. That's a good time to shear them off and wait for them to re-bloom in cooler weather. Pansies will look great in the beds with the spring bulbs or in window boxes, planters and bowls and as edging and bedding plants. You can also plant in late summer and they will bloom all fall and may even bloom through the winter - especially the little violas - and start in again in the spring. About the only other plant that has that kind of performance is plastic!
Q. What shall I look for when buying bedding plants?
A. Perhaps the best measurement of a healthy plant can be seen in the roots. A well-formed network of whitish roots binding the soil together indicates a healthy plant. Plant problems often begin with root disorders. The health of the root affects the size and color. It the roots are in poor shape, usually the top will tell you. Stressed roots, however, may not be obvious from the green leaves or buds. Gently ease the plant from the container. If no roots are present, the plant was recently transplanted and has not yet reached its prime. Generally, the root ball should fill the container. If the root circles the container, the plant is root bound, a stressful condition indicating you will need to trim away larger roots and tease out all the root-bound soil masses before planting. Reject a plant with black roots or if the roots have a strong odor.
Healthy bedding plants have a well-branched structure or bushy appearance. The plants appear vigorous with well-shaped leaves, a bright rich color and are free of insects or disease symptoms. Shop early for the best selection and pinch off the flowers of young transplants as you plant them. This reduces transplant shock, and redirects the plant's energy to the production of a strong root system. Removing the first flowers helps the plant survive the heat of summer and means more flowers or fruit later.
Q: How important is soil temperature when planting a vegetable garden?
A: Different spring weather favors different vegetables. Cool-season vegetables thrive and produce bountiful crops during cool, early spring days when frost or snow is likely. They are intolerant of extremely hot weather. These vegetables germinate at a soil temperature of 40 degrees, but the optimum temperature is 65 - 75 degrees. "Hardy" vegetables, such as, broccoli, cabbage, kohlrabi, onions, lettuce, peas, radish, spinach, turnips will grow with daytime temperatures as low as 40 degrees. When it's too hot their quality tends to decline and they toughen, lose sweetness or split. "Semi-hardy" vegetables such as, beets, carrots, cauliflower, parsley, parsnips, potatoes, and Swiss chard prefer 40 - 50 degree daytime temperatures without frost.
Warm-season vegetable seeds germinate with a minimum of 50 degrees, but the optimum temperature is 80 - 90 degree. They require a long hot growing season. The hotter summer becomes the better they will do, provided they receive enough moisture. Usually these vegetables are transplants or have been grown in soil heated by mulch, black plastic or row covers extending the growing season. Examples of "tender vegetables" are beans, celery, corn, cucumbers, New Zealand spinach and summer squash. "Very tender vegetables" are not only intolerant of frost, but cool spring winds. These vegetables include lima beans, cantaloupe, eggplant, pepper, pumpkin, winter squash, pumpkins, tomato and watermelon.
Q: I have dozens of container pots filled with potting soil left over from last summer. Do I have to replace the potting soil every year?
A: No. You can take one-half of the soil out of the containers, put it in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp, and add two inches of good compost per eight inches of soil. Mix the ingredients in order to enrich the soil and put air back into the planting mix. All the old potting soil lacks is nutrients but can be reused year after year as long as you add additional composting or organic materials. Another problem may occur, however, if the pots filled with soil experience the moisture/heating/freezing/thawing cycle during the winter. Unless the pots have been glazed at extremely high temperatures, they may crack and disintegrate in one winter season without being covered for protection.
Seed beets, carrots, Swiss chard and sweet corn about two weeks before the last frost. In Fort Collins that date averages around May 10 to the 15 although last year our last 32 degree day was on May 24. You can still plant broccoli, cabbage, lettuce and spinach if you didn't get them planted in April.
Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis ) can be used to kill mosquito larvae. It is available in slow release floating rings, "dunks", which will cover 100 square feet and last for about 4 weeks. Use them in ponds, water barrels or other areas of standing water where mosquitoes may breed. It is not harmful to humans, other mammals, birds or bees.
Established perennials may need fertilizer after a year or two in the garden. Applications of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of a 5-10-5 fertilizer in early spring will usually be sufficient. Water the fertilizer into the soil well and wash off any that land on the foliage.
Direct seed into the garden bachelor buttons, calendula, California poppy, cosmos, gaillardia, gomphrena, marigold, morning glory, nasturtium, strawflower, sweet alyssum and zinnia about two weeks before the average frost-free date.
The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.
Gardening and Insect Fact Sheets are available on-line by clicking HERE.
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