The challenge for vegetable gardeners, especially urban gardeners, is to keep vegetables growing and producing to make optimum use of backyard gardening space.

A good approach to this challenge is succession planting. When the radish crop has gotten too hot and woody to eat anymore, that same space can be used for a second planting of radishes or for a later maturing vegetable, such as Swiss chard, beets or onions.

Another method is to intercrop a fast-growing crop with a slower germinating one. Many gardeners plant radishes right in the same row with their carrots. The fast-growing radishes mark the row where the slower-germinating carrots will grow. As the radishes are harvested, they will have loosened the soil to improve growing conditions for the later carrots.

For centuries Native Americans have planted pole beans, corn and squash together. The beans provide nitrogen to the soil and can climb up the corn stalks. The large leafed squash provides shade to hold moisture for the corn. All three crops benefit and space is maximized.

Planting spring crops such as lettuce, radishes or spinach between or around hills of long season crops like squash or zucchini helps increase a garden's yield. Squash takes weeks to spread to mature size and even loose-head lettuces can make use of that space. In hotter weather, large squash leaves provide shade for lettuce or other early crops. Lettuce does not compete with squash for soil nutrients.

To avoid the waste of an abundance of fresh greens, many short season vegetables can be planted a few feet every two or three weeks starting in early spring to provide a continuous harvest. Examples are any of the leaf lettuces, butterheads or romaine. Cool weather crops that bolt or go to seed in hot weather often can be planted again for a fall crop in late July or early August. Swiss chard, spinach, lettuce, radishes, kale and broccoli can produce fall crops. Kale especially exhibits enhanced flavor after fall frosts.

Another way to save space and still get a variety of salad greens is to plant mesclun. Mesclun is a French name for mixed young leaves for salads. Many seed companies have begun packaging mixtures of six or eight greens such as several varieties and colors of leaf lettuce, oriental greens, endives and Italian greens. Short rows can be sown every couple of weeks for a continuous supply, but most of the plants will regrow if clipped with scissors rather than pulled. Mesclun mixes are found in some mild or spicy/zesty combinations of greens.

To get an early start on vegetable gardening, sow seeds of longer-season crops indoors so seedlings can be put out as soon as the soil warms. Hot caps, cloches, walls of water or floating row covers protect early plantings. Those same floating row covers can extend the fall season to keep late plantings of greens producing and to allow tomatoes or squash to ripen despite early frosts.

Q:  Is now a good time to prune my rose bushes?

A: In Colorado, a substantial portion of rose canes are often damaged by the winter climate.  Remove only the dead portion of these canes in early spring.  Close or low pruning of the canes usually stimulates new growth.  If pruned too early, this new growth may be severely damaged or killed by late frost.  Delay close or low pruning at least until two weeks before the average last killing spring frost date.

Q:  Are there any perennials that deer won't eat?

A: Deer will eat almost anything if they are hungry enough. But there are a few perennials that are rarely browsed by deer probably because of either their flavor or texture.  A few choices are daffodil, blanketflower, larkspur and lavender.  If these are put around the property line as a deterrent, it might make your more palatable plants less vulnerable.

Q:  I just moved here from a moister climate.  Should I be misting my houseplants?

A:  Yes, Colorado is a pretty dry climate and misting gives houseplants the environment that they desire.  Most plants enjoy a light misting every other day although avoid misting plants with 'fuzzy' leaves. The 'fuzzy' leaves actually trap the moisture in that spot and can cause rot.  With these special 'fuzzy' plants it is best to place them in a tray of rocks and water.  The roots will pull the moisture they need from the bottom without wetting the leaves.

You can improve the vigor of houseplants by moving them outdoors for the summer, but it's best to wait until night temperatures are above 50 degrees and all danger of frost has passed. Harden off plants by placing them in a shaded area for a few days and gradually expose them to longer periods of sun. Provide protection from wind by using screens of burlap, shingles or other material.

Remove mulches from around perennials and roses gradually. Mulch protection helps the plants survive our alternate freezing and thawing weather.

Tune up the lawnmower - sharpen the mower blades. A dull mower blade will shred the leaf blades instead of cutting them cleanly and will give the lawn a brown appearance. Clean and sharpen shovels, hoes and pruning shears if you didn't have time to do it last fall.

Asparagus, horseradish and rhubarb are perennial garden vegetables that do well in Colorado - even in gardens up to 10,000 feet elevation. One-year-old crowns of asparagus and roots of rhubarb and horseradish are usually available to plant. Since these vegetables will remain in the same spot for several years, it is wise to amend the soil with organic matter and test the soil fertility before planting.

The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.

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This page updated:  April 22, 2003