Gardening in Larimer County

Trees and shrubs add a great value to our environment and to our property values so it is important to protect them by sending them into winter with a good supply of moisture.  The past three winters have been drier than average, and combined with the lack of rain this spring and summer, watering this fall and winter is especially important.

Trees growing in lawns will have many of their roots intermingled with grass roots and will receive moisture from your lawn watering.  But it is important to water trees properly based on their variety, size, location and soil type. Horticulture professionals in the Community Tree Alliance “Save our Shade” developed some general rules of thumb on watering mature trees. Their recommendations follow.

*  Tree root systems can spread two to three times wider than the height of the tree.  Most of the tree’s absorbing roots are in the top twelve inches of the soil.  Water should be applied within the dripline, the critical root zone between the trunk and tip of branches.

*  Apply water so it moistens the critical root zone to a depth of twelve inches.  Methods for watering include a deep root fork or needle, soaker hose or soft spray wand.  Apply water to many locations under dripline.  If a deep root fork or needle is used, insert the device no deeper than eight inches into the soil.

*  As a general survival rule, apply ten gallons of water for each diameter inch of the tree.  For example, a two-inch diameter tree will need twenty gallons per watering.  Use a ruler to measure your tree’s diameter.

*  Fall and winter watering, October-March, one to two times per month depending on weather, temperature and soil conditions.  Spring and summer watering, April-September, three times per month, depending on weather and watering restrictions.

*  Apply organic mulch within the dripline, at a depth of four inches.  Leave a six-inch space between the mulch and trunk of trees.  Mulch materials may include wood chips, bark, leaves and evergreen needles.

*  Drought stressed trees are more vulnerable to disease and insect infestations and branch dieback.  Keep a watchful eye for anything that looks out of the ordinary.

Q.  What is the best way to store potatoes and carrots without canning or freezing them?

A.  Root crops, such as potatoes, carrots, beets, turnips, rutabagas, winter radishes, kohlrabi and parsnips are best stored where they are grown until there is a danger of soil freezing.  They store best at near freezing with a high relative humidity. Onions, pumpkins and squash store better at lower humidity.  The temperature should be between 33 and 45 degrees. Pack root crops in bins with moist sand or vermiculite. The use of organic materials isn't recommended because they tend to decompose.  Dahlias and gladiola corms can also be stored dry in bins with perlite or vermiculite.  If you have a heated basement you can partition off a storage room that includes a basement window.  Insulate the ceiling and walls and open and close the window for the desired temperature.

Q.  Do my raspberry plants need winter protection?

A.  Yes, to ensure a crop of summer-bearing raspberries in most areas of Colorado, protect the canes during the winter.  Soon after November 1, lay the canes down in one direction and hold them in place with a shovel full of soil on their tips.  Shovel a shallow furrow along each row and roll the soil over the canes. In early April, use a pitchfork to lift the canes out of the soil.  The advantage of fall-bearing varieties is that winter protection is not needed. Simply cut off the canes after harvest.  However, if you desire a summer crop from these canes, you will need to protect them as well.

Invest in a rain gauge for your automatic sprinkler system.  If a specified amount of rain falls, this gadget will automatically turn off your sprinkler system thus saving water.

Before spraying for insects, check for the presence of beneficial wildlife such as birds or insects.  More than likely they are already on the job.

To get a new flush of fall color, remember to deadhead your asters and mums.  The quickest way to do this is to use pruning shears rather than doing each individual flower.

If you are like many gardeners, you have dry hands from working in the soil.  Try using a lotion type sealer on your hands.  It will stay on your hands for up to 3 days without needing to be reapplied.

The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.

Gardening and Insect Fact Sheets are available on-line by clicking HERE.

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This page updated:  March 31, 2003