Gardening in Larimer County

In the midst of Colorado’s worst drought in 50 years we are challenged to think of ways to conserve our most precious natural resource, water, and still create a useful outdoor environment that will beautify our property boundaries and give value to our home. Since low water availability is predicted for at least the remainder of this year and next, we won’t be able to do a lot of new  planting (even xeric plants need additional water to get established).  However, we can plan for changes within the landscape that can reduce the demand for water in the future.

Creating a landscape is not a one-season process, but if you focus on the structural basics of exposure, soil preparation, irrigation, and grass boundaries, these basic elements can be the start of a landscape that will be well prepared for plant material when the time is right. The first step in this process will be patience, and a well-designed landscape or landscape remodel takes time and careful consideration.

Start off by walking around your property boundary.  What kind of weather exposures do you have to consider. As a rule, south and west exposures result in the greatest water losses, especially areas near buildings or paved surfaces. You can save water in these locations simply by changing to plants adapted to reduce water use. Take the time to make a list of drought tolerant perennials and shrubs and tour gardens that have established plants that are thriving in the current environment.  Don't be too quick to substitute plastic and gravel for perennials.  Extensive use of rock on south and west exposures can raise temperatures near the house and result in wasteful water runoff.  Refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet #7.228 - Xeriscape: Creative Landscaping.

You must also take the time to reflect on how you currently use your outdoor space. For instance, can you decrease the amount of turf grass in your front or back yard? If your grass space is used by young children that might not be the best thing to do. Avoid narrow strips of turf, hard to maintain corners, and isolated islands of grass that need special attention. Not only is maintenance more costly, but watering becomes difficult, often wasteful. Turf can be reduced to areas near the house or that get high use. If your yard is already landscaped, refer to Fact Sheet #7.234 - Xeriscaping: Retrofit Your Yard, for information on ways to evaluate and eliminate unneeded turfgrass areas. If you will need to install a new landscape down the road, do not overlook the value of soil preparation. Proper soil preparation is the key to successful water conservation. If the soil is very sandy, water and valuable nutrients will be lost due to leaching below the root zone. If your soil is heavy clay, common in this area, you will lose water through runoff. More information on soil preparation can be found in Fact Sheet #7.222,  Soil: The Key to Successful Gardening.

Efficient irrigation is critical and can lead to a 30 – 80 percent water savings around the home grounds. If your budget allows, an automated sprinkler system can be the most efficient way of watering your landscape, provided it is programmed correctly and designed for efficient use. If you do not have the time or skill level to install your own irrigation, contact a professional irrigation company to avoid the pitfalls of a poorly designed system. Make sure the system is designed to fit the landscape and the water needs of the plants and that it is zoned to reduce unnecessary applications of water.

There are many steps in the process of landscape design, but the first steps are the most important. If you take the time to evaluate the needs of your family, the exposure to sun and wind within your property boundary, efficient irrigation methods and the careful use of turf grass, you will be rewarded with the structural basics that will be the backbone of your landscape.
 

Q:  With the current watering restrictions in place, my husband and I want to use our bath water and the water from the washing machine on our lawn and on some of our plants.  We would not use it on edible plants, of course.  Is it safe?

A:  It sounds like you are questioning if this water is safe for your plants.  It would be impossible to give you an answer.  There are so many products used in washing machines such as detergents, fabric softeners, bleaches, and brighteners that could affect plant materials.  Bath water could have soap, shampoo, bath oil and the like.

However, the overriding problem with your question is that the use of this water to help irrigate your yard is actually illegal at this time.  The water from uses within the house such as bath water and the water from the washing machine and from the bathroom sink is known as “gray water”.  Water from the dishwasher and washing dishes and from the toilet is known as “black water”.  According to the Board of Health, the use of either is prohibited for use on the surface of your yard.  All could have come in contact with bodily fluids and could contain pathogens.

Q:  My lawn has turned totally brown from lack of irrigation.  Is it dead?

A:  Lawns that have turned brown from lack of water will range from dormant to dead, depending on a number of factors.  Some grass species such as Kentucky bluegrass, buffalograss, blue grama, bentgrass and fine fescues possess a mechanism for going dormant for months at a time during a drought and still emerge from dormancy in relatively good shape. Tall fescue and perennial ryegrass do not have this ability and will most likely be dead if left to go totally brown.  Some turf can survive well without any supplemental watering during dormancy.  The dormancy survival of bluegrass is probably enhanced by the application of 1/4 to 1/2-inch of water every 7-10 days.

Turf that has been maintained properly prior to the drought with regard to fertilization, cultivation and thatch management will most likely survive longer than lawns that have not been managed properly. When turf is dormant, restrict traffic as much as possible, avoid nitrogen fertilization, do not aerate or de-thatch and continue to mow at a mowing height of 2 1/2 to 3 inches.

Pay attention to the information tags on your new plants.  They will tell you when the plants bloom, what kind of light the plants require, how much water the plants need and the plant’s mature height. This valuable information can help you in planning your flowerbeds and grouping plants with similar requirements.  If you want a low water flower garden use this information to keep plants with high water requirements out of that area.

Now is the time to pinch back leggy petunias. Cut them back by half, as this will encourage compact growth.  Fertilizing at this time will encourage new growth including more blooms.  When watering petunias make sure to direct the water at the soil as the leaves are sticky and any soil that is splashed on them will cling.

Try starting biennials from seed this summer.  Biennials usually take 2 years to complete their life cycle.  Seeds can be started in small pots and then transplanted into your flower garden in late summer.  The plants will live through winter, as most require cold temperatures to bloom.  Next year your efforts will be rewarded with wonderful blooms.  Common foxgloves, Canterbury bells and hollyhocks are biennials that you might want to try.

The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.

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This page updated:  March 28, 2003