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With the onset of autumn there are fewer gardening chores, and an opportunity to review the efficiency of your landscape design. With gardening time usually demoted behind other priorities, and water's value and price always rising, consider the xeriscape approach to design. This low-water zone concept can be introduced into an existing landscape. Although the benefits are greater with an overall low-water usage design, xeriscape zones can be incorporated over a period of time.
Xeriscaping means dry landscaping, but it is by no means drab. Foliage density, color, shape and texture provide variety and give a unique architectural form to the overall landscape. Flowering trees such as Golden rain tree and Japanese pagoda tree create seasonal interest. Upright shrubs like cliff rose and mountain-mahogany emphasize the vertical, as do many ornamental grasses (miscanthus and hardy pampas). Blue fescue and ribbon grass are attractive ground covers both for their arching leaves and blue/green and gray/white coloring. Likewise flowering perennials vary in color, leaf texture, size and form, and provide sequential color throughout the growing season. Anchusa and Canterbury bells are tall and do well in shade, as do the aggressive creepers false dragonhead and golden banner. Hollyhocks and delphinium lend height and long-lasting color to xeriscape borders; when combined with other sun-loving perennials a lush colorful bed will belie the fact that water usage is low. For more information, refer to the following Fact Sheets: #7.229 - Xeriscaping: Trees and shrubs; #7.230 - Xeriscaping: Ground cover plants; #7.231 - Xeriscaping: Garden flowers; #7.232 - Ornamental Grasses.
Many things are considered during xeriscape design: slope, orientation, wind exposure, microclimates, and the overall desired effect. For instance where a slope could be causing runoff problems, it can be turned into an advantage by channeling this natural irrigation toward moisture-loving plants. Alternatively it could be terraced or planted with a drought-resistant ground cover. A south or west exposure often is a problem, especially if edged with a sidewalk or street, but it is ideal for plants that love hot, arid conditions. A microclimate such as that created by fencing and/or heavy shade is a natural place for plants that need a more constant moisture level and protection from hot summer sun.
Colorful and varied-structure shrubs and flowers are zoned together--making irrigation more efficient, and complimenting the other plantings with the juxtaposition of the variety. Likewise, trees should be within a bed or island separate from turfgrass which requires much more water. The tree area can be covered with organic mulch or under planted.
Turfgrass need not be eliminated from a xeriscape. To the contrary — areas of turfgrass compliment other plantings very well, and are essential for the heavy-use areas in a yard where guests are entertained, children play and pets romp. A convenient location for these areas should be an initial consideration in the layout, but the higher turfgrass water requirements must also be considered so that these zones are irrigated separately from other plantings.
Areas where turfgrass is eliminated need not—should not—be covered with plastic and rocks. This compounds water-loss problems through run off and increased temperatures, as well as cutting off oxygen to the soil and underlying roots. Organic material such as wood chips or bark maintain a lower temperature, higher soil moisture, and help control weeds. (See Fact Sheet #7.214 - Mulches for Home Grounds.) Within these areas plants of similar water-usage can be used to create special focal points: a rock garden, beds of native ornamental grasses, mono-colored annuals and perennials, spring/summer/autumn blooming bulbs, or masses of lilies or irises.
Xeriscaping offers many opportunities to put your ingenuity to work. For more information contact the Larimer County Office of Colorado State University Cooperative Extension at (970) 498-6000, or refer to Fact Sheets: #7.234 - Xeriscaping: Retrofit your yard; #7.228 - Xeriscaping -Creative landscaping; #7.222 - Soil - the key to successful gardening.
Q: My pine trees are losing some of their inside needles. Is this a problem?
A: Most pine trees shed their inner needles at this time of year so your situation could be perfectly normal.
Q: What are these black and red bugs that are congregating around my home's foundation?
A: These are probably boxelder bugs, a common nuisance from fall through early spring. They will stain draperies and other light colored surfaces. They do not bite people nor injure house plants and do not feed or lay eggs indoors. For more information, refer to Fact Sheet #5.522 - Boxelder bugs: characteristics and control.
The Chrysanthemum is a favorite fall blooming flower. The name comes from the Greek chrysos (gold) and anthos (flower). Chrysanthemums were cultivated in Chinese gardens for 2500 years before coming to the west.
Dig the bulbs and tubers of calla lillies, cannas, dahlias,gladiolas and tuberous begonias after their foliage is killed by frost. These plants are not winter hardy out doors in Colorado. Dry and pack the bulbs in damp vermiculite or sterile potting soil. The challenge is to keep the bulbs from drying out but not so moist that they mold.
The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.
Fact Sheets are available at the Larimer County Extension Office, 1525 Blue Spruce Drive, Fort Collins, Colorado, telephone (970) 498-6000, or contact us by e-mail at larimer@coop.ext.colostate.edu
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