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Native Americans have used peppers, a multiple use food, for many decades. Their flavors vary from sweet to mild and spicy, and varieties include bell, cherry, cayenne, jalapeno, banana and Anaheim to name just a few.
There are also a multitude of colors, shapes and sizes. The globe and elongated shaped peppers have glossy skins with colors ranging from red, white, chocolate and the familiar dark green.
Peppers are simple to grow but best yields can be achieved by taking care of just a few of their special needs. Pepper plants perform best in a narrow temperature range. They do not like temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit so planting before June 1 will probably require extra protection. Warming the soil with a porous dark landscaping fabric will help get the plants off to a good start. At the other end of the spectrum, the plants may drop their blossoms if temperatures exceed 85 to 90 degrees.
Peppers like a soil rich in organic material. Prepare the soil with compost to provide needed nutrients and to improve the soil texture. Seeds are available in many varieties and may be planted indoors in April and transplanted into the garden in early June. When purchasing transplants, look for plants that are small and have five true leaves. They will quickly outgrow the taller transplants since they will spend less time in transplant shock.
Peppers need approximately one inch of water each week but could use more during the hottest part of the summer. Use an organic mulch to help maintain even moisture levels, minimize evaporation and keep down weeds.
When the peppers are ready to harvest avoid stem damage by cutting the fruit from the stem rather than pulling the pepper from the plant. You may want to use gloves when picking as natural oils from the peppers can cause skin and eye irritation. Harvest peppers frequently starting shortly after they have changed colors to their mature shades of red, yellow or purple. Our relatively short growing season often prevents the peppers from ripening before the first frost. Even though they will be sweeter if they ripen on the vine, go ahead and pick them green. They will still be quite flavorful. If they are slightly bitter, it could be from insufficient watering.
There are many varieties of peppers offering wide ranges of flavors. To decide on your favorites, grow several varieties but don't forget to keep a garden log so you'll remember which one is which.
For more information refer to Fact Sheet #7.616
- Peppers and Eggplant.
Q: My marigolds have very few blossoms the last few weeks. Should I fertilize or water more often?
A: Marigolds don't require a lot of water or fertilizer. Hot weather stops heavy blooming but plants should start flowering more as the weather cools.
Q: How do I build a rock garden that doesn't look like a pile of rocks?
A: Rock placement is important as well as plant and flower choices. A good rule to follow is placing rocks to resemble the natural environment. Spend some time out in the forest and study what has developed naturally. The more "designed" it is, the less natural it will look.
Q: My lawn sprinkler system works well, but a couple of spots dry out before the entire lawn needs watering. Is there anything that I can do short of watering the spots by hand.
A: It's possible that the soil beneath the dry spots is more compacted than the entire lawn. Try aerating the dry spots (this will be good for the entire lawn as well) using a hose-end aerator for individual spots or rent a commercial aerator to do the entire lawn. This will help eliminate soil compaction, increase drainage and allow more oxygen to reach the grass roots. Fall is a good time for lawn aeration.
Don't forget to take photographs of all your gardens while still in bloom or at the mature stage. Use the photos to decide where spring/summer bulbs will be planted and to make decisions regarding placement or reconstruction of your garden. Regardless of your memory skills, a photograph is your best guide. The best time to take photos is with the morning sun. A panoramic view and up-close view of special areas of interest are good tools to have this winter while you are planning for next spring.
Fall asters will soon be in bloom and in need of staking. Think ahead and place recycled plant supports within your aster bush. A dried branch or sunflower stalk works wonders and supports the plant when in heavy bloom. Don't forget the last application of blooming fertilizer. This should be done before Labor Day.
As you clean-up your garden beds of spent annuals and other dried plant material you tend to create bare spots within your garden. If you don't like this look, consider these areas to plant another crop of cool season vegetables such as, lettuce, carrots, broccoli, radishes, or peas. Make sure the newly planted area is well mulched and will receive at least 6 hrs of sunlight.
The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.
Fact Sheets are available at the Larimer County Extension Office, 1525 Blue Spruce Drive, Fort Collins, Colorado, telephone (970) 498-6000, or contact us by e-mail at larimer@coop.ext.colostate.edu
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