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A gardener's main concern may be to determine when the first tomato of the season will ripen or how to minimize the amount of slug damage being done to his or her hostas. But keeping safe while working in the garden should also be a part of the daily routine. Safety in the garden may be ensured by following some simple rules: careful use of pesticides and herbicides, using tools correctly, being aware of the threat of E.coli from the garden, keeping your tetanus immunization current and careful planning before digging a hole.
Before you pull out that bottle of ‘bug spray' consider the other options that are available, such as cultural, biological, or physical controls. First, be sure you have identified the insect correctly, decide if there is enough damage that you need to intervene, and then determine the best type of control for that insect. Cultural controls such as choosing adapted cultivars, keeping your garden clean, and using a drip irrigation system instead of overhead watering will help to keep the bugs at bay. There are also biological controls (lady beetles, parasitic wasps, and lacewings) which aid in combating those nuisance insects. You can encourage these natural predators by avoiding toxic sprays and dusts which kill all insects instead of just affecting the bugs that are chewing up your tomato plants. Another useful technique is to plant a mixture of flowers and herbs, and deliberately choose plants with pollen and nectar that will feed all stages of the beneficial insects you want in your garden. Examples of these plants are dill, fennel, parsley, thyme, Echinacea (coneflower), and Solidago (goldenrod). Physical controls include hand-picking insects, using pheromone scented traps to control codling moths and certain borers, or even putting beer traps out for slugs. Another option is to plant extra tomatoes or squash and accept the fact that insects will eat part of your expected harvest. If these controls have not worked well enough to ensure enough vegetables for your family you may want to consider chemical control. There are insecticides that are made from natural sources (pyrethrin from pyrethrum flowers or diatomaceous earth) which are not as persistent as the synthetic chemicals.
Okay, so you've decided to use a synthetic pesticide or herbicide on your prize tomatoes and you want to ensure that you and your family don't ingest the chemicals. The first step is to read the label. It contains information about the safe use of that particular chemical. Following the manufacturer's suggestions may save you a trip to the Emergency Room! Be sure to use the chemical at the recommended mixture. Making a batch of "XYZ" that is 4 times as strong as the recommended ratio is overkill. It may destroy the weeds next to your tomatoes but it might also turn into an aerosol which can be breathed in by anyone in the area or it might adversely affect the trees above the tomatoes you are spraying. Determine the ambient temperature, wind speed, and direction before using a chemical spray so that you are applying the treatment at the appropriate time and frequency. The directions will explain how many days you must wait before you can harvest your vegetables. Using a pesticide or herbicide as directed on the label will keep you and the environment safer.
Garden tools are another area that need some attention. By keeping your tools sharp they will help you work more efficiently and with ease instead of struggling with a dull blade and hitting your toe with a wild swing! Another rule that most gardener's maintain is to put the points of the rake or hoe down when the tool is laid on the ground, so an unsuspecting visitor won't injure himself if he steps on it. If you are using a ladder to prune branches, ensure that it is firmly planted with all four feet on the ground and, if possible, have a good friend stabilize it for you. Remember to look above you before climbing that ladder to avoid overhead electrical lines. It is easy to trip on garden hoses while you have your arms full of fresh zucchini, so make it a habit to put them away after watering the garden. Another danger area is the lawnmower. Most manufacturers recommend that lawnmowers are not used on a slope because of the threat of the gardener losing their balance and the mower rolling back over hands or feet. If you are using a riding mower, take care to follow the recommendations and allow only one person on the mower. Giving little Mary a ride may cause you to be distracted and lose control of the mower. Let Mary wait until she is old enough to drive it herself and she can help you mow the lawn!
Another safety hazard from the garden is the threat of eating fruits or vegetables that have been contaminated with Escherichia coli 0157:H7 (E.coli) bacteria. All human beings have E.coli in our intestines and in fact, we need the bacteria as a source of Vitamin K and B-complex vitamins. A problem occurs when a specific strain of Eschericia coli, known as E. Coli 0157:H7 is ingested into your body. This pathogen produces a mild toxin which causes mild non-bloody diarrhea which progresses to bloody diarrhea, severe abdominal pain and dehydration. The disease can progress rapidly to renal failure, seizures, coma or stroke. These complications are most often seen in the elderly, very young and persons with compromised immune systems. If you suspect that a family member or yourself has become infected by E.coli, contact your physician immediately. This bacteria has been found on many different foods, including lettuce, unpasteurized apple juice and cider, and produce from manure-fertilized gardens. If fresh or improperly composted manure has been incorporated into the soil around root crops and leafy vegetables, or if the person who harvested or prepared the produce did not wash their hands after using the bathroom, there is a risk of E.coli bacteria on those products. You can avoid the threat of an E.coli infection in your home by washing your hands and the product before eating it.
One safety hazard that most gardeners may not think about is keeping their tetanus immunization current. Tetanus bacillus is found in soil and dust and is spread by human and animal feces. A small scratch from a dirty trowel may seem inconsequential unless the tetanus bacteria was in the dirt and has now been introduced into your body! Many physicians like to renew tetanus immunizations at 5 - 10 years, although there is a current shortage of the vaccine, so check with your doctor to see when your immunization should be done.
A final safety threat occurs when gardeners are digging holes. Make a habit of calling 1-800-922-1987 and asking for a utility locate to be done before digging that hole and you can avoid buried electrical, cable and gas lines. Then use an appropriate position (and that sharpened shovel) so you don't injure your back! Remember to drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration, and to apply sunscreen before and during your time in the garden to combat the sun at our high elevation.
These practices concerning the use of pesticides and herbicides, gardening tools, avoiding E.coli, maintaining your tetanus immunization, and digging appropriately will keep you safe and ensure that you enjoy your time in the garden!
If you would like more information about E.coli, refer to Fact Sheet #9.369 - Preventing E.coli from Garden to Plate.
Q. What are the brown spots in my lawn?
A. A number of things can cause brown spots in a lawn. The most common cause for this time of year is a lack of water. Most lawns require an inch of water 1-2 times a week, and the best time to water your lawn is early morning or evening so that you avoid the evaporation loss that occurs during the day. If you are watering this often and your grass is still brown, dig into the area to determine how deep the roots have grown. If the roots are near the surface you may have over-watered in the past resulting in a shallow root system or the ground may have not been well prepared before planting and the roots can't get past the rocks or clay that is below them. A Master Gardener volunteer can give you information about the best way to start or re-new your lawn.
Q. I'd like to plant a tree that would grow to about 25 feet. What type of tree should I plant?
A. The type of tree to plant is based on many factors. Do you
want an evergreen or a deciduous tree (loses its leaves in the fall)? How
wide do you want the tree to grow? What type of irrigation do you have
in the area where the tree will be planted? Do you want showy flowers on
the tree? Once you have made these decisions, you will be better
prepared to choose an appropriate tree for your yard. For more information
refer to Fact Sheet #7.418
- Small Deciduous Trees.
Many people are familiar with using annual and perennial flowers in a xeriscape or water-wise landscape, but are unaware that you can also incorporate xeric trees and shrubs. These drought tolerant trees and shrubs do best when they are separate from your turfgrass, unless your lawn is also a low-water type of turf. Be sure to keep the new plants well watered for at least two years until they become established. Then reduce water gradually making sure to avoid frequent shallow watering as this leads to shallow roots and defeats the goal of a drought tolerant landscape.
If your flower and vegetable garden didn't do as well as expected this year, you might want to have your soil tested. A soil test can give you a better idea of your soil's fertility. Amendments can then be added to your soil to correct deficiencies. Five nutrients and micronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, zinc and iron) are deficient in many Colorado soils. Information on soil testing is available through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension.
To help prevent weeds from growing or increasing in your lawn, use only high quality grass seed. Low quality grass seed often has other seeds used as filers. Check the label or go to your local nursery for good quality seed. Other preventative measures include growing a strong healthy turf that will out-compete the weeds and keeping weeds from going to seed.
The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.
Fact Sheets are available at the Larimer County Extension Office, 1525 Blue Spruce Drive, Fort Collins, Colorado, telephone (970) 498-6000, or contact us by e-mail at larimer@coop.ext.colostate.edu
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