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Sometimes regarded as a roadside weed, the daylily has managed to find its way into most perennial gardens in Colorado. Despite its humble beginnings, the daylily has become the backbone of hot, summer flower gardens for a number of reasons. The daylily is easy to grow, tolerates most soil conditions, is quite winter hardy, adapts to partial shade as well as full sun, comes in a wide range of colors, has a fairly long blooming season and is relatively pest and disease free.
Like its name, Hemerocallis, "beauty for a day", the individual daylily flower lasts only one day. However, a single plant may produce over 100 flowers, extending a plant's blooming period for several weeks. More than 32,000 varieties have been registered and over 12,000 are available commercially including varieties with periods of bloom from very early to late in the season. Daylilies can be blooming with iris in the spring and continue into fall with chrysanthemums.
Daylilies are members of the Liliaceae (lily) family. Originally from Eurasia, the lemon daylily (yellow) and the tawny daylily (orange) were brought to the New World by colonists and were popular farmyard plantings. The tawny daylily spread to roadsides, thus leading to its other common name, "ditch lily."
Early flowering varieties bloom in late spring and early summer. Flowers range from less than 2 inches across, for the miniature varieties, to over 9 inches. Flowers are available in virtually every color of the rainbow, except blue and true white and some varieties have attractive eyes and throats. There are also polychromes, with blends of related shades, and bi-color and eyed flowers that combine different hues. Many of these colors are the result of extensive hybridization. The root system of daylily plants varies from an almost fibrous type to the common fleshy type. This fleshy root system, in part, differentiates the daylily from true lilies that grow from bulbs.
Growth needs
Daylilies grow best in partial shade to full sun. Although they are known for their tolerance of poor sites, they will perform best in areas that are well drained and which possess abundant organic matter. If fertilized heavily, foliage will be overgrown and flowering will be poor. One application of a complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 in early spring, should be adequate.
Water once a week to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, more often during prolonged periods of drought.
Mulching is beneficial particularly on newly transplanted daylilies. Once they are established (have experienced one winter) daylilies do not need winter protection, however, some of the evergreen varieties are less winter hardy and require continued winter protection.
Just as other plants in the garden need regular clean up, daylilies are no exception. Remove dead foliage and debris from plants in early spring and late fall. Check plants regularly during the growing season to remove damaged or yellowed leaves. Unless you want to experiment with seedling plants, faded flowers and flower stalks should be removed before seeds are produced to ensure that all of the plant's stored food reserves go to the root. This will help the plant make a good showing next year.
Propagation
Daylilies can be propagated by seed or through division. Seeds require 6 weeks of stratification before sowing and then 3 to 7 weeks to germinate. Plants grown from seed will not be identical to their parent. Dividing large clumps is an easy way to add quantity to the garden and trading and sharing daylily divisions is a great way to add variety to your collection. Clumps can be divided when they become overcrowded, usually every 4 to 6 years, by separating the plant into rooted segments, each with about 1-2 shoots. This division is often referred to as a fan. Because the root system is so vigorous, you may need to use a spade to get the pieces apart. Daylilies can be divided in spring as new growth is emerging or during September but avoid dividing blooming plants. When planting divisions or newly purchased plants, the hole needs to be large enough to allow the roots to spread out. A small cone of soil should be made in the center of the hole, with the division placed on top and the roots fanned outward and downward. Carefully work the soil in around the roots. Set the plants so that the crown (the point where the roots and foliage meet) is about an inch below the soil surfaces. Tall cultivars should be spaced 24 to 30 inches apart with smaller types 18 to 24 inches apart.
Culinary uses
Daylily leaves and flowers are edible, but pick only from plants that you know have not been sprayed with any chemicals. Fortunately, daylilies don't have many pest problems and spraying is seldom needed. Young foliage (3 to 5 inches long) can be simmered or stir-fried. Flower buds and blossoms can be consumed at all stages of their growth. Tight buds have a flavor sometimes compared to asparagus and can be used in salads, boiled, pickled or stir-fried. Half-open, fully open, and even day-old blossoms can be dipped in a light batter and deep-fried. Young flowers and buds can be strung and air-dried. These are commonly referred to as "golden needles" in Chinese cooking. Before using, soak the dried flowers in warm water for a few minutes to soften.
Q: Are roly-poly bugs eating my vegetables?
A: Pillbugs (roly-polys) are small, gray crustaceans usually found outdoors under rocks or other cover. They feed on decaying vegetable matter and occasionally may feed on tender seedlings in greenhouses and gardens. They are harmless to humans and do not bite. During some times of the year, particularly after extended wet spring weather, pillbugs may move into homes. Because of this and the minor annoyance they cause, control generally is unnecessary. Since these arthropods are susceptible to drying, moisture control usually is all that is needed.
For more information see Fact Sheet #5.552 - "Millipedes, Centipedes and Sowbugs."
Q: Can you eat flowers?
A: Edible flowers have been used in the culinary arts for flavor and garnish for hundreds of years. Many flowers are edible, like begonias, daylilies (flower and buds), zucchini, calendula, pansy and chrysanthemum. However, proper identification is essential because some flowers are poisonous and should not be eaten. Many edible flowers are high in vitamin C and/or vitamin A, along with other essential nutrients. Use them as garnishes and in salads. Pick flowers early in the day and use them at their peak for the best flavor. Avoid unopened blossoms (except daylilies) and wilted or faded flowers as they may have a bitter or unappealing flavor. Do not use flowers that have been sprayed with pesticides, which may be the case with flowers purchased from florists, garden centers or nurseries. Introduce new flowers into the diet slowly to pinpoint possible allergic reactions. For more information see Fact Sheet #7.237 - "Edible Flowers."
Watch for cane borers on raspberries
Raspberry cane borers are insects that burrow down into the canes and
kill the plant. Early symptoms include the sudden wilting and drooping
of tops of canes. Remove infected canes at the first sign of infestation.
Insecticides that are relatively effective for control include the active
ingredient carbaryl (Sevin) when applied before blossoms open. Be
sure and follow label directions when applying any insecticide.
Potentilla good choice in shrubs
Potentilla is a common shrub in Colorado landscapes. There are
many varieties with flowers ranging from white, yellow or red. They
love full sun and grow well in our alkaline soils. They bloom profusely
throughout the summer tapering off in early fall. Prune them in early spring
to remove old dead wood and to promote new growth.
Grass
Lawns need extra attention during the high temperatures of summer.
In clay soils, water grass deeply and less often to develop a strong deep
root system. Proper watering helps to conserve water and protects
ground water from nitrogen contamination due to leaching.
Brown spots from pet urine are caused by high concentration of nitrogen. Dilute the nitrogen by watering spots heavily up to 8 hours after urination occurs. Another solution is to train animals to use a designated area of gravel or mulch.
The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.
Fact Sheets are available at the Larimer County Extension Office, 1525 Blue Spruce Drive, Fort Collins, Colorado, telephone (970) 498-6000, or contact us by e-mail at larimer@coop.ext.colostate.edu
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