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With the hot days of summer comes an invader, winding and twisting it’s way throughout lawns and gardens, devouring everything in it’s path. What could this menace be, that no amount of pulling seems to make a difference? Which only seems to come back with a vengance? Could it be the one weed that strikes horror into the hearts of green-thumbs everywhere? Could it be, BINDWEED?!
Well yes it could be bindweed or it could be annual morning glory. Both have trumpet shaped flowers, but morning glory flowers are lavender or purple. Bindweed flowers are white or white with light lavender streaks. The leaves are arrowhead shaped and alternate on stems that can grow up to ten feet in length. Annual morning glory is easier to control because it is an annual, a plant that dies back each year. The first line of defense is to keep it from going to seed by using mechanical controls such as; tilling, hoeing, hand-pulling, mowing , mulching or burning. Since it has a shallow tap root, control is possible.
Bindweed can be much more difficult to remove, being a perennial, a plant that comes back each year, and having deep spreading root systems with vertical and horizontal roots.
Non-chemical control is possible but it requires that one be diligent. Weeds such as bindweed can be starved to death. New shoots use food stored in the roots for the first 7 to 10 days to produce leaves. Then after 10 to 14 days the leaves send food back to the roots. Tilling a garden area or a field within 10 days after the weeds emerge will weaken the plants. In order for this method to work regular tilling is required. A single missed tillage will cancel out your efforts by allowing the plants to store energy. This method can also be used with mechanical controls in small gardens and flower beds. Preventing bindweed from going to seed is also very important to keep new infestations from starting .
Chemical controls can be used in fields and gardens for site preparation and during the growing season. 2,4-D and Banvel can be used to control bindweed in grass crops including corn and small grains. Using recommended rates, spray the weeds when they begin to run. this will suppress the weed for 4 to 6 weeks but will not kill the root system. Glyphosate,(Roundup),may be used in late spring or early fall when no crops are present. Apply when the weed is at or beyond full bloom and do not disturb the area for 7 days. Read and follow all label directions carefully. Always read the instructions to see when crops can be replanted as with some you must wait up to 30 days to plant. When using chemical controls care must always be taken to follow mixing directions correctly and avoid getting the chemical on your skin or inhaling it.
Bindweed can also be a problem in lawns. Mechanical and chemical control methods can be used with great success. Chemicals can be applied at any time during the growing season with late summer and fall being the best times. These chemicals include 2,4-D, 2;4-D plus MCPP, 2;4-D plus dichlorprop (weedone), 2;4-D plus trilopyr (turflon) and dicamba. Herbicides that contain dicamba are very effective against difficult to control weeds, however, it poses a threat to trees and shrubs and its use is not strongly recommended. Again, be sure to read and follow label directions very carefully when applying any chemical. There are some chemicals that are only available to those who have been licensed in their use and are not available to the average homeowner.
With the use of chemical and mechanical controls bindweed no longer has to be the menace of the garden!
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Where Trade Names Are Used, No Discrimination Is Intended,
And No Endorsement By Colorado State University Cooperative Extension
Is Implied.
Q. The blooms on my geraniums are sick looking and have holes in the unopened buds.
A. Geranium or tobacco budworm could be the problem. Petunia, nicotiana and roses are also favorites with many other flowers receiving damage occasionally. The adult stage is a moth of about 1 1/2 inches that lay single eggs on plants. The caterpillars hatch and move to the flower bud where they attack the buds and ovaries of developing flowers. Damaged buds fail to open or will flower with the petals looking ragged and chewed. Winter is spent as a pupa 2 to 6 inches deep in soil. Temperatures below 20 degrees F. will kill them. They can also overwinter in pots brought indoors so it is advisable to replace the soil in these pots. Hand picking is the most practical control due to insecticide resistance. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) can be effective on petunias where much of the blossom is eaten, but not on geraniums where the worm tunnels into the buds.
Q. I have hundreds of Boxelder bugs in my yard, how can I control them ?
A. The red and black bugs can be a real nuisance and can leave stains on fabrics . The first step would be to remove female boxelder trees if possible. Insecticides that are registered for use on building exteriors are not that effective against boxelder bugs. Laundry detergent and water mixtures are effective if applied directly to the bugs, but may also damage vegetation. Boxelder bugs overwinter in houses and other buildings. When in the house boxelder bugs do not reproduce or feed. The best method of control is to keep them from entering the home in the first place. Seal openings (particularly along sun-exposed sides of the building) in early fall before the boxelder bugs move to shelter following frosts.
Check you garden daily for large caterpillars on vegetation. Hand pick and destroy those you find. Damage to the leaves and vegetables can be devastating in a matter of hours from horn worms.
Pick vegetables that are smaller for greatest nutritional value. Over ripe or mature and large isn’t always the best choice.
Fertilize roses two months before the average killing frost date or no later than August 15th. Tender new growth is susceptible to winter damage.
Let blooms on plants fade and set seed for next years garden. Collect seeds at maturity and place in a cool dry storage area until planting time next spring.
The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.
Fact Sheets are available at the Larimer County Extension Office, 1525 Blue Spruce Drive, Fort Collins, Colorado, telephone (970) 498-6000, or contact us by e-mail at larimer@coop.ext.colostate.edu
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