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Today’s homeowner can enjoy the same grasses that amazed the pioneers.
Over a century ago, European settlers were awestruck when they encountered the American tall grass prairie. The majestic grassland seemed to stretch on forever. Blades of grass billowed in the wind and seed heads glistened in the sun like frothy waves on an inland sea.
Now, modern gardeners are rediscovering these prairie grasses. Grasses can add valuable movement, color, and texture to any garden.
The primary grass of the tall grass prairie was big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii). Also known as turkey foot for it’s unusual three-branched seed head, big bluestem reaches four to seven feet tall making it ideal for planting as a screen or a background plant. Big bluestem’s lush foliage ranges from blue-green to silvery blue in summer and matures to a rich bronze color in the fall and winter.
One of the loveliest native grasses is Indian grass (Sorhastrum nutans). The variety “Sioux Blue” is noted for its upright form and dusty blue color. In late summer, feathery butter-colored flower heads rise high above the three-foot tall foliage. “Sioux Blue” turns a surprising yellow color in the fall, and the grass continues to be delightful through the winter. Despite heavy snows, “Sioux Blue” maintains its strong vertical structure, and its dry foliage gives off a spine-tingling rustle with each passing breeze.
Switch grass (Panicum virgatum) also covered the prairie. The cultivar “Heavy Metal” is a beautiful ornamental grass for the garden. It’s metallic blue leaves stand stiffly upright in a three-foot high clump. Tall flowers in a distinct pink shade appear in July about fifteen inches above the foliage. Although the fall color on “Heavy Metal” is not as strong as some switch grass varieties, the plant boasts a distinct erect form straight through the winter.
Naturally, the native grasses of the prairie are well suited to Colorado conditions. They are not particular about soil, doing fine in heavy clay. They enjoy full sun and are fairly drought tolerant once they are established. Pests and diseases almost never bother them. Moreover, native grasses of the prairie are very low maintenance, only requiring a yearly shearing in March so that fresh foliage can emerge in the spring.
All the grasses of the tall grass prairie look great planted in masses, but they also are striking as single specimens in a border. Gardeners who live in covenant controlled neighborhoods can make their prairie plantings more pleasing to all their neighbors by creating clear, neat edges for their borders using landscaping timbers, rocks, or lawn. Interplanting grasses with flowering perennials will give borders added appeal. Ideal companion plants include gayfeather, butterfly flower, echinacea, prairie coneflower, black-eyed Susans, asters, and goldenrod. With some careful planning and planting, modern gardens can recapture the glory of the tall grass prairie.
For more information on ornamental grasses, refer to Fact Sheet #7.232 - Ornamental Grasses or call Plantalk Colorado toll free at 1-888-666-3063 and request recording number 1002.
Q: What should I look for when buying spring flowering bulbs?
A: To get a good selection of spring flowering bulbs and corms, shop early in the fall. Look for the largest bulbs of a variety because there is a direct correlation between bulb and flower size. Make sure that the bulbs you select are free of mold and cuts. Store the bulbs in a cool dry place until you can plant them. Bulbs should be planted in September or October so that they can establish a good root system before the ground freezes.
Q: I just purchased some chrysanthemums, and I was told that I should pinch them back next year. How do I do that?
A: Chrysanthemums should be pinched early in the summer to increase their flowering potential in the fall and to help the plant keep its overall cushion shape. In spring or early summer, pinch as soon as the new shoots are 4 inches tall. Take the growing tip and the first set of leaves between your thumb and forefinger and nip them off. You’ll be removing about an inch of the mum. When the stems reach 4 inches, pinch them again. Stop pinching your mums in early or mid July.
Q: Last fall, I noticed spiders in my basement. Should I be concerned?
A: Many spiders choose to move inside in the fall, but most spiders
are beneficial insects and should not be destroyed. The black widow
and brown recluse are the only dangerous spiders found in Colorado, and
neither is aggressive. Consult a physician if you are bitten by a
spider and experience increasing pain and swelling. With some effort,
you can decrease the number of spiders in your home by combining good sanitation
habits with pesticides. First, rid the immediate area around your
house of spider habitats like wood piles and old boards. Caulk any
crevices in your home’s foundation, make sure that all doors and windows
fit tightly, and keep basements and crawl spaces free of debris.
Then you may choose a residual pesticide labeled for control of spiders
around the home. Follow the directions on the pesticide label carefully
and keep up with good sanitation practices.
Don’t forget to take photographs of all your gardens while still in bloom or at the mature stage. Use the photos to decide where spring/summer bulbs will be planted and to make decisions regarding placement or reconstruction of your garden. Regardless of your memory skills, a photograph is your best guide. The best time to take photos is with the morning sun. A panoramic view and up-close view of special areas of interest are good tools to have this winter while you are planning for next spring.
Fall asters will soon be in bloom and in need of staking. Think ahead and place recycled plant supports within your aster bush. A dried branch or sunflower stalk works wonders and supports the plant when in heavy bloom. Don’t forget the last application of blooming fertilizer. This should be done before Labor Day.
As you clean-up your garden beds of spent annuals and other dried plant material you tend to create bare spots within your garden. If you don’t like this look, consider these areas to plant another crop of cool season vegetables such as, lettuce, carrots, broccoli, radishes, or peas. Make sure the newly planted area is well mulched and will receive at least 6 hrs of sunlight.
The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.
Fact Sheets are available at the Larimer County Extension Office, 1525 Blue Spruce Drive, Fort Collins, Colorado, telephone (970) 498-6000, or contact us by e-mail at larimer@coop.ext.colostate.edu
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