Return to Master
Gardener News Releases .
Nothing is more delicious than fresh raspberries from the garden. With just a little care and preparation you can be harvesting plenty of fruit for breakfasts to come.
Variety, site selection and soil preparation are important first steps to successful raspberry growth. With the right conditions, as much as 15 to 20 pounds of fruit can be harvested from each 25-foot row.
Two types of raspberries are available for planting in Colorado; summer bearing and fall bearing. Summer bearing have one larger harvest in the summer with a smaller one in the fall. Fall bearing raspberries produce fruit only in the fall and are best adapted to the Front Range particularly the variety Heritage.
When choosing a planting site consider Colorado’s dry winter winds and cold temperatures. Late spring and early fall frosts may injure plants and cause berry loss. Low natural rainfall reduces chance of cane and foliar diseases, but irrigation is a must. Two or three inches of water per week is needed especially during flowering and fruiting season.
Brambles will tolerate some shade but raspberries require fertile, well-drained soil in full sun. Prepare soil by applying two to three inches of well composted organic matter. Well composted manure, compost, peatmoss or a combination of these is recommended. Dust the top of soil with super phosphate or bone meal using two pounds per thousand square feet or ammonium at a rate of four pounds per thousand square feet. Work amendments into the soil to a depth of one foot. Since raspberry bushes are heavy feeders, add nutrients to the soil each year after planting and cultivate.
Raspberry plants are produced by rooted suckers. Before planting, soak the plants in a bucket of water for five hours to overnight. This will give them a better start. Locate the soil line on the stem and plant at this same depth. Place the plants 2 to 3 feet apart within the row and allow 5 to 10 feet between rows. Stretching a wire on either side of the row will provide support for growing plants. As they grow, canes can then be tied to the wire with soft twine. Cut the canes to a height of 4" to 6" above the ground level.
As the season progresses and weeds develop, gently hoe weeds around the plant to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. Mulch mid summer to maintain moisture, moderate soil temperature and help control weeds. Don’t hoe weeds in the fall as this will stimulate plant growth and winter damage may occur. Suckers, growth from the roots of the existing canes, will fill in the rows within a year or two. Thin these periodically and the plant will develop larger berries.
Colorado gardeners enjoy few disease and insect problems because of our relatively dry climate. One problem insect that can occur on raspberries along the Front Range are cane borers. Cane borers cause wilting and drooping of the cane tips. Remove those that become infested to prevent spreading to other plants.
Finally, sit back and enjoy luscious fruit for all of your effort.
For further information, refer to Fact Sheet #7.001 - Raspberries for the home garden. Or call Plantalk Colorado toll free at 1-888-666-3063 and request recording number 1207 on raspberries.
Q: There is a white powder on the leaves of my rose bush. What is this?
A: The problem could be powdery mildew, a common fungus that attacks some varieties of roses in high dry climates. This often occurs when the roses are crowded together and little air is moving through the plant and when humid conditions exist such as in shaded and damp areas. A drip irrigation system rather than an overhead spray will help reduce humidity. Selectively thin the plants for increased air movement. Control the mildew by removing infected stems and leaves. If cultural controls are not doing the job, spray with sulfur dusts or apply a systemic fungicide. Read and follow the label carefully when applying all chemicals.
Q: I would like to fill in a perennial area with a few annuals for color. Is it too late to plant them?
A: The temperature has been hot and planting during this time is risky. However, plants purchased from garden centers have roots which can do well if the plants are properly watered and mulched.
Q: My columbine grew tall and flowered early this year. Is it okay to cut them back?
A: Cutting foliage and removing spent flowers is routine maintenance for perennials. Foliage will grow and you may enjoy a second flowering in the fall.
The foliage on spring bulbs should be turning brown now. It is time to remove the foliage when it comes free by tugging on it gently. Mark the location of the bulbs before all the foliage is removed to make it easier to add more bulbs, annuals or perennials.
Can you mow your entire yard without backing up? Now is a good time to determine those hard-to-mow areas and consider turning them into flower and vegetable gardens with rounded borders (no corners) to make your mowing faster.
Visit your garden everyday for just a few minutes. Remove diseased leaves and look for damaging insects and other problems. Head off trouble before it gets very far. Handpick insects when you can. Don’t resort to chemicals unless you absolutely must.
Water your turfgrass and gardens only when needed and water deeply. Conservation of water is for everyone.
The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.
Fact Sheets are available at the Larimer County Extension Office, 1525 Blue Spruce Drive, Fort Collins, Colorado, telephone (970) 498-6000, or contact us by e-mail at larimer@coop.ext.colostate.edu
Return to Master
Gardener News Releases .