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First some basic requirements must be met: soil fertility and condition, plant placement, and water needs. Amended soil improves texture and provides some nutrients. Grouping plants according to similar water and sun requirements helps prevent over watering of some and under watering of others. If enough TLC isn't provided as the plant establishes its root system, all else is wasted.
Now let’s look at the plants. Shrubs often make for a good “backbone” of structure and color. Some suggested evergreens that like dry, well drained soils include Armstrong globe juniper (J. chinensis ‘Armstrong’), sabin juniper (J. sabina), and mugo pine (Pinus mugo). Globe arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis globosa), hick yew (Taxus media ‘Hicks’), mentor barberry (Berberis mentorensis), and Oregon grape holly(Mahonia aquifolium) all like moist, well drained soils. Remember these water requirements are AFTER plants are established.
Some suggested deciduous shrubs are: rose of Sharon, (Hibiscus syriacus), beautybush (Kolkwitzia amabilis), columnar buckthorn (Rhamnus frangula ‘Tallhedge’), buffaloberry (Shepherdia argentea), and heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica). These like moist, well-drained soils. Apache plume (Fallugia paradoxa), orangeeye butterflybush (Buddleia davidi), pygmy and Siberian peashrub (Caragana pygmaea, C. arborescens), MacFarlane and Persian lilac (Syringa reflexa, S. persica), and wayfaring viburnum (V. lantana) like dry, well drained soils. Perennials placed in front of shrubs provide structure and color. Italian bugloss (Anchusa azurea), globe thistle (Echinops ritro), fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium) and goatsbeard (Aruncus dioicus) are but a few. The seedpods of false indigo (Baptisia australis) give autumn variety. Torch lily (Kniphofia uvaria) flower spikes rise above clumps of grass-like foliage and monkshood (Aconitum napellus) has lacy foliage and helmet-shaped flowers. Maltese cross (Lychnis chalcedonica) planted in small groups gives bold color. Ragwort’s (Ligularia stenocephala) yellow rocket-like blooms (4-6 ft.) rise above a large foliage clump. Bloodred cranesbill (Geranium sanguineum) in blue, purple, red or white (1-1½ ft.) has beautiful red autumn foliage. A spreading plant of delicate rosy beauty is Mexican evening primrose (Oenothera berlandieri) which blooms from June - September.
Roses also do well here as long as they are in full sun with well-drained soil, good air circulation without harsh winds and no shrub or tree root competition. They are available as bare root or potted and the planting procedure and time differ depending on how they are sold.
These roses are only a few of those known to do well here. Hybrid Teas: Electron, Marijke Koopman, and Tiffany (pink); Crystalline, Honor and Pristine (white); Elina and Peace (yellow); Olympiad and Perfect Moment (red). Grandifloras: pinks include Sonia and Prima Donna, and Shreveport is an orange blend. Floribundas: Angel Face (mauve); Europeana and Impatient (red variations); First Edition (orange-pink), while Little Darling and Sunsprite are yellow. Miniatures: Jean Kenneally (apricot), Little Jackie (orange), Rise’n Shine (medium yellow), and Pierrine (orange-pink) are alternatives to reds and pinks. Shrub and Old Garden Roses: Madame Hardy and R. Alba Semi-Plena are both white; Hanseat and Bonica (Meidomonac) (pink). Climbers include Altissimo and Dortmund (medium red); Handel (red blend); Don Juan (dark red), and America and Galway Bay (pink).
Keep in mind that each garden has micro climates with areas that are extremist, overly dry, or exposed to desiccating winds. Critters can clean out a garden overnight and our unpredictable weather often leaves casualties. But remember, part of gardening is the understanding that it is a continuing process of learning and enjoyment, challenge and gratification and most of all joy.
For more information on any of the above mentioned plants, check out the following Fact Sheets: 7.220 (Colorado gardening: challenge to newcomers); 7.211 (Fall and winter watering); 7.222 (Soil); 7.230 (Xeriscaping: ground cover plants); 7.231 (Xeriscaping: garden flowers); 7.405 (Herbaceous perennials); 7.232 (Xeriscaping: ornamental grasses), 7.404 (Selecting and planting roses), , and 7.415 (Deciduous shrubs for home grounds).
Q: What are some shrubs that I can use in my Foothills property?
A: Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia) works well on rocky, dry slopes. It is a native and produces edible blue fruit. Another is Siberian peashrub (Caragana arborescens) which produces yellow flowers in early summer. Consult Fact Sheet 7.407 (Shrubs for mountain communities) for more selections.
Q: I have so many grass ‘weeds’ growing in my flower bed. No matter how often I pull them they keep coming back—any suggestions?
A: Try using thick mulch to block the sun’s rays from reaching the weedy grass. You can use organic mulches or mulch with newspapers. Moisten the paper, then place sections at least ten sheets thick over the grasses. At the end of the season work the paper into the soil. Be sure to use only ordinary newspaper, not the glossy inserts.
Q: I need a ground cover for a hot, dry, steep slope. What can I use besides turfgrass?
A: One that works well and blooms relatively late is Himalayan
border jewel (Polygonum affine). It reaches 12-18 inches and has red flowers.
A nice complement would be lavender cotton (Santolina chamaecyparissus),
which grows 10-12 inches and has blue-gray foliage in dense mats.
For more selections consult Fact Sheet 7.230
(Xeriscaping: groundcover plants).
Use hedge shears to cut back perennials instead of pinching individual stems. Cutting them back encourages branching and denser, bushier growth. (Shears make this task faster and easier.) Flowers that benefit from this treatment include chrysanthemums, asters and phlox.
Help deter grass from invading flower and shrub beds by using an edging tool or sharp spade to cut vertically around the outside of the bed. Secondly, cut in at a 45 degree angle from outside the cut edge and remove the pieces of soil. The resulting angled trench is difficult for grass to cross.
Set aside 15 minutes each day to pull or dig weeds. Consistent effort will help keep the population down without a great expenditure of time or energy.
Attract beneficial insects (parasitic wasps, lacewings and lady beetles) by adding plants to the garden that have some small flowers with accessible pollen and nectar. Herbs such as coriander, fennel, and dill fit the description as do yarrow, sunflowers, zinnias and asters.
The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Larimer County.
Fact Sheets are available at the Larimer County Extension Office, 1525 Blue Spruce Drive, Fort Collins, Colorado, telephone (970) 498-6000, or contact us by e-mail at larimer@coop.ext.colostate.edu
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