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For best results, spend some time planning and preparing before placing seeds or transplants out in the garden. First of all the soil needs to be prepared. Our soil has most of the minerals and nutrients needed by plants but they are often tied up to the clay particles because of the soil’s alkaline nature. This is best corrected by the addition of organic matter in the form of sphagnum peat moss, compost or well aged manure. The addition of this material will improve the texture of the soil and make it easier to work. The plant roots will also be grateful for more moisture and air. Annual additions of about l lb. of this organic matter per square foot of garden is a good rule of thumb.
Before planting try to remember where you planted tomatoes, peppers and corn the previous year. Diseases that develop on these plants can remain in the soil over the winter and can reinfect the new crop, so move things around each year. A three year rotation cycle is preferred.
Only a couple of vegetables need fertilizer at planting. Tomatoes can have a handful of complete fertilizer added in each hole but be sure to cover the fertilizer with an inch of soil before placing the transplant on top of it. The other crop that needs to have an extra boost is the potato. They especially appreciate a dose of superphosphate or complete fertilizer worked into the soil but not in contact with the seed pieces.
The amount and frequency of watering required will vary with the crop,
temperature, wind and cloud cover. A general rule is to give the
garden about an inch of water each week. Evaporation can result in
the loss of much of your water so try to irrigate in the early morning
or late evening when the air is still and avoid sprinkler heads that have
a fine spray. An alternative to this is to use a soaker hose or drip
system. Covering the exposed ground with some sort of organic mulch or
grouping the plants close enough so that their foliage protects the ground
will
also reduce evaporation. When watering, apply enough to keep
the root zone damp, but avoid frequent light irrigation.
If you want to extend the harvest season you may want to consider “succession” planting. That is, plant a new row every two weeks. This works well with beans and corn. It will let you use the area you had in peas or some other early crop again this same season.
After harvest don’t forget to compost those old stalks and vines. It will give you a start on the compost you’ll need for next year’s garden.
For more information on growing vegetables contact the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension office at 498-6000 or call PlantTalk Colorado at 1-888-666-3063 and listen to many of the 1800 series recordings on vegetables.
Q: My lawn is greening up slowly. What should I do for it?
A: Some lawns take longer than others to perk-up in the spring. However, core-aerating will encourage healthy roots and reduce compaction. Apply a slow release nitrogen fertilizer if you didn’t fertilize last fall and mow the grass to a height of 2 to 3 inches. This will also encourage deeper roots.
Q: Some years the new growth on my pine trees dies. What can I do to avoid this problem?
A: This could be the work of the pine-tip moth. Larvae mine and kill new shoots causing them to brown and crook. Heavy infestations for consecutive years may retard growth, leaving trees short and bushy. Several parasites provide natural controls but if insecticides are needed, apply chlorpyrifos (Dursban), Orthene, or dimethoate (Cygon). Always read the label carefully before applying any pesticide.
Q: Dandelions are always a problem for me. What can be done about them?
A: Herbicides containing 2-4-D work best to control actively growing dandelions and other broad-leaf weeds. Be sure to follow the directions when mixing and spraying. It can be applied either before or during flowering.
For better photos of your garden, shoot in early morning or just before dusk. Avoid bright, mid-day sun.
When buying plants, look for stocky, young plants with good color. Check to see that the plants aren’t root bound and look under the leaves for signs of white flies or aphids.
Annuals that are best seeded directly into the garden rather than transplanted include larkspur, cosmos, bachelor’s button, love-in-a-mist and baby’s breath.
A compost pile will "work" faster if the organic materials are in small pieces, the pile is kept moist but not wet and it is turned regularly.
The authors have received training through Colorado State University Cooperative Extension's Master Gardener program and are Master Gardener volunteers for Larimer County.
Fact Sheets are available at the Larimer County Extension Office, 1525 Blue Spruce Drive, Fort Collins, Colorado, telephone (970) 498-6000, or contact us by e-mail at larimer@coop.ext.colostate.edu
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