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Dry Weather Lawn Care
4/24/2002
Ron F. Meyer
Area Extension Agent
(Agronomy)
Colorado State University Extension
Golden Plains
Area |
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Summer will arrive soon. Following are dry weather strategies
for lawn care.
Aerate the lawn when needed, benefits are many,
including:
- improving water penetration into compacted soils and
through thatch and mat layers
- improving fertilizer movement to the turf roots
- allowing greater levels of oxygen to reach the soil in
exchange for carbon dioxide and other gasses
- enhancing turf-grass shoot and root development
- reducing water runoff (runoff from turf areas may carry
pesticide residues and fertilizers into neighboring storm drains and streams
causing pollution problems)
The spike-type aerators that
push a large solid spike into the soil may increase compaction in heavy clay
soils. Aerating loosens the soil, rather than compacting it further. Use the
type of aerator that removes a core of soil. Aerators can be rented from local
rental companies or can be done by commercial lawn care companies.
Check
irrigation systems, hoses and sprinkler problems can waste water. Spring is a
great time to check your irrigation system for consistency, uneven water
coverage and leaks. Place straight-sided cans or glasses in the area to be
irrigated. Turn the sprinkler system on for a set length of time and measure
the amount of water collected in the containers during that time.
Using
containers to measure the amount of water applied will pinpoint any variation
in water distribution in the irrigated area. Plugged heads, improper spacing of
sprinkler heads, etc. can be identified and subsequently corrected by using
this method. The amount of water applied and the depth of water penetration
should be rechecked occasionally during the summer months to avoid problems
that develop from clogged or twisted heads. Reset or clean heads as
necessary.
If establishing a new lawn, prepare the soil properly; this
will increase rooting depth and increase drought tolerance of the grass. Proper
soil preparation means the addition of organic matter and tilling the soil as
deep as possible. Add 3 to 6 cubic yards of a decomposed organic matter
(manure) per 1000 square foot area of lawn. Use a coarse – not a fine
– material. While root depth is controlled in part by genetics, the depth
of soil preparation determines the ultimate rooting depth. Tall fescue will
develop roots below 12 inches if the soil is properly prepared. Shallow soil
preparation and soil compaction causes shallow roots. The deeper the roots, the
more drought tolerant the grass will be.
This is not the year to expand
the lawn; sacrifice difficult water using areas. Because of the probability of
limited water supplies, delay any intentions to put in more lawn or garden
space. Small grass areas (turf islands) that are difficult to water, and the
parts of your lawn that are not doing well, may be candidates for change.
Consider transforming these areas into rock or cactus gardens. Always consider
the use of xeric trees and shrubs (plants that are drought resistant or require
less water) when planning new garden areas.
There’s a great
selection of xeric plants compiled by the Colorado State University/Denver
Botanic Garden Plant Selectâ program. For more
information, go to:
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/psel/index.html
and http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/TRA/PLANTS/plantselect.html
Allow
Kentucky bluegrass to go dormant if necessary. Kentucky bluegrass can be
allowed to go "warm season dormant" without permanent and excessive injury if
healthy. This is a worst-case scenario option if drought conditions persist.
Watering properly when restrictions are lifted will allow Kentucky bluegrass to
recover. Kentucky bluegrass may recover even after 9 months without water. If
you are not sure what grass is in your lawn, take a sample to your local
Colorado State University Extension office for
identification.
Delay watering in early spring. Base the first watering
on soil moisture content. Spring is the time of maximum nutrient uptake.
Watering too early in the spring cools the soil and reduces nutrient uptake.
This stresses the grass and makes it more susceptible to insect and disease
problems. Early spring watering can also saturate the soil, reducing the oxygen
available to deeper roots, which results in the death of these deep roots. The
loss of deep roots increases the grass’s susceptibility to drought stress,
and increases the need for more frequent watering. Check the moisture content
of the soil with a trowel or shovel to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. If the soil is
dry, water. If the soil is moist, delay watering.
Prevent weeds from
taking over drought-stressed turf areas. Weeds always seem to thrive regardless
of the conditions. Do not allow uncontrolled weeds to overtake the lawn or
garden. Apply the proper methods necessary to prevent weed growth. Herbicides
such as 2,4-D, Trimec, and Triamine are effective against the broadleaf weeds
that often invade weak turf.
Water deep, but only as needed; avoid
shallow frequent watering. The frequency of turf irrigation should be based on
the grass condition. When turf grass requires water it will:
- turn darker than normal (it appears as if a shadow is
cast on the lawn)
- turn blue-gray
- not spring back when walked on (depressions left by
footprints do not bounce back)
- prevent the blade of a screwdriver or other such
implement from penetrating into the soil any deeper than two inches.
These drought symptoms can
appear in patches or over the complete turf area. When only small areas exhibit
drought stress, water only those areas that need to be irrigated. Watering the
complete lawn when only a small area requires water, or watering too
frequently, results in shallow roots, increased susceptibility to drought
(especially during the hot and dry days of July and August), and increased
susceptibility to Melting-out Disease (Leaf-spot Disease).
Watering a
lawn on a too frequent, shallow basis results in death of deep roots, and
increases the need to water.
Water at night to reduce water loss from
evaporation. Watering during the heat of the day can result in excessive levels
of evaporation. Watering during the night reduces problems with turf diseases
and reduces the amount of water lost from evaporation making the irrigation
more efficient. This strategy can cause some turf diseases to thrive, so
inspect your lawn frequently.
The most efficient and ideal time to
irrigate turf grass is between midnight and 6 a.m. Such timing, however, is
difficult for all but those gardeners with an automatic sprinkler system.
Gardeners not wishing to spend their night hours watering should consider
watering during the day after the night moisture has been burned off by the
morning sun, but not too late in the day; 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. The turf must dry
before nighttime dew takes over again, for disease concerns.
For further
information on watering lawns, go to:
http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/TRA/PLANTS/lawnwat.html
Don’t
water during windy times; save water by watering in calm weather. Watering when
it is windy results in loss of water through evaporation. Wind will also divert
the water resulting in some areas getting much more water than others, and
leaving dry spots. Areas of the turf that do not receive adequate moisture will
require more water to stay alive.
Fertilize lightly in spring and
summer; apply a heavy application of nitrogen fertilizer in the fall. Nitrogen
fertilizer stimulates growth and increases the need for more water. Apply no
more than ½ pound of nitrogen per 1000 square foot of lawn area in the
spring. If conditions change, you can always add more as needed. Lawn
fertilizers are typically labeled with directions on how to set various types
of lawn fertilizer spreaders so that one pound of nitrogen is applied per one
thousand square foot area of turf. To apply a half-pound of nitrogen, reduce
the fertilizer setting by one-half.
Mow the lawn at a height of 2
½ to 3 inches; mowing shorter results in shorter roots. The higher the
lawn is mowed, the deeper the roots (as long as the soil has no compaction
problems). In Colorado, Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue and perennial ryegrass
should be maintained at a height of 2 ½ to 3 inches. If the turf is
maintained at 2 ½ inches, cut the grass by the time it reaches a height
of 3 ¾ inches; if the grass is maintained at a height of 3 inches, mow
by the time the grass if 4 ½ inches high. Mow the lawn often enough so
no ore than 1/3 of the blade is removed at each cutting. Removing more than 1/3
of the grass blade can cause root death. When roots die, more frequent
applications of water will be required to keep the grass alive during the heat
of summer.
Monitor the lawn weekly for problems; address problems as
they surface. Carefully inspect your lawn at least weekly for disease and
insect pests. During a year of potential high stress from drought this becomes
even more important. Early detection and control of problems is
essential.
Source: Curt Swift and Pat McCarty, CSU
Extension |
Page Created and Maintained by: Perry D. Brewer, Area
Extension Agent (Technology Education/Youth)
1/16/2003 |
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